Jewelry Setting and Gem Mounting – What Technique is the Best Choice for your Next Design? Published on: 23/02/2023 by Royi Sal Jewelry Team - Leave a Comment “Jewelry Setting” and “gem mounting” sound as if they could almost be synonyms for the same process. The two words are very different and introduce how gems are integrated into jewelry. Jewelry setting doesn’t refer to the process of “setting” gems into jewelry. Instead, the term is a noun and references a piece of jewelry with a space for the jewelry to be added later. The term is the proper name for any part of jewelry before its stone or stones are added–whether a ring, broach, necklace, or any other piece of jewelry; until it has its gems, it should be considered a “jewelry setting.” So, how does one go from having a “jewelry setting” to a finished piece? That’s where “gem mounting” comes in–the process of integrating the stone or stones. The process by which gem mounting occurs can actually vary dramatically, with styles and techniques ranging between jewelers and unique considerations related to the materials used. However, as diverse as the precise details of the jewelry setting may be, we can look at several standard “general practices” today. Jewelry Setting and Gem Mounting Channel Setting When a jeweler uses a “channel setting” process, it inserts the gemstones in a row between lengthwise bars, creating a “channel.” This style means no additional metal needs to be used between individual stones, and it also eliminates the use of prongs. To ensure a tight-fitting, grooves or notches are carved into the bars, designed to be spaced more narrowly than the stones between them. This approach is often seen in wedding bands. Another style of jewelry that often integrates the process is “tennis bracelets,” — named after a famous incident in 1987 when top tennis player Chris Evert wore a bracelet with a channel setting in the U.S. Open. Bezel Setting Among all of the techniques for jewelry setting, perhaps the oldest is the bezel setting. Despite its age, the bezel setting remains the most frequent setting style for cabochons (stones with curved tops and flat bottoms). In bezel settings, a length of metal is curved into the dimensions and shape of the stone, after which the piece of jewelry is connected to the metal with soldering. Once the stone is firmly entrenched into the bezel, the metal is draped over the gem to keep it fixed securely. This process is typically done by hand but may reduce the amount of light able to pierce through the gemstone–which can result in a less brilliant look of the gem than other setting methods. Pave setting Most used with small, round cut gemstones, pave setting entails a jeweler creating a series of small indentations, marginally smaller than the girdles of the gems that will be inserted. After fitting the rocks inside these holes, the jeweler presses over these girdles with tiny prongs of raised gold. The process requires considerable skill from an experienced jeweler with specialized skills but can create a particularly striking effect when done correctly. Prong Setting If bezel setting is known as one of the old methods of gem setting, then prong setting is the most popular method used today. Unsurprisingly, prong settings feature prongs–typically 3 to 4, but sometimes more depending on the weight and size of the stone. The tips of the prongs are designed with notches and bent edges to wrap around the edges of the tops of the rocks, keeping the gem firmly in place. This setting style is also typically accompanied by a wire “basket” under the stone, raising the gem and often allowing additional light to pass through the stone. You may also hear this “basket” fitting sometimes described as a “head mounting.” Illusion setting Illusion settings are a type of setting that can make small gems look more significant than they are. To achieve the effect, a jeweler encircles the girdle of the gem with highly reflective metal so that the metal itself looks like it is a part of the gem. This can also be a valuable technique for a jeweler to apply when refuting a piece of jewelry with a smaller stone than it may have been initially designed for. Conclusion Of course, these techniques only scratch the surface of the various processes involved. For a more extensive breakdown of which methods may be best for your next project, or any other questions you may have on jewelry manufacturing, our experts here at Royi Sal would love to hear from you! As your premiere jewelry partners, we’re always eager to help support you in your jewelry manufacturing aspirations.
Recent Jewelry and Metal TrendsLike all trends, metal trends come and go and often move in cycles when tracked … Read More... about Recent Jewelry and Metal Trends
Advantages of Buying Engagement Rings Online Amidst Covid19You are probably aware that the world is undergoing an unprecedented period of … Read More... about Advantages of Buying Engagement Rings Online Amidst Covid19
6 Best Jewelry FilesThere are many different cuts, shapes, and varieties of files; some jewelry … Read More... about 6 Best Jewelry Files
Etching Vs Engraving of JewelryLooking to try your hand at etching or engraving? Both are great for creating … Read More... about Etching Vs Engraving of Jewelry
Top 5 Jewelry Making Tools For A Busy DesignerFeeling frustrated at work and looking for a way to speed up the jewelry making … Read More... about Top 5 Jewelry Making Tools For A Busy Designer
3 Different Arts and Techniques of LapidaryIf you’re new to the jewelry-making crowd, you may have come across the term – … Read More... about 3 Different Arts and Techniques of Lapidary
How To Melt Silver To Make JewelleryMelting silver is a natural process and once you get to know the fundamental … Read More... about How To Melt Silver To Make Jewellery
5 Ways to Bring Jewelry Business Online Amidst COVID-19 With the Covid19 outbreak cutting into many jewelers’ ability to conduct … Read More... about 5 Ways to Bring Jewelry Business Online Amidst COVID-19
The Jewelry Casting Process: Lost-Wax CastingOne of the oldest jewelry-making methods, lost wax casting, dates back to the … Read More... about The Jewelry Casting Process: Lost-Wax Casting
8 Best Jewelry Chain StylesThere are many gold and silver chain styles available, each serving different … Read More... about 8 Best Jewelry Chain Styles
Jewelry Craftsmanship in ThailandThailand has always been the South East Asian hub of Jewelry Manufacturing and … Read More... about Jewelry Craftsmanship in Thailand